Trip to the William Spratling Ranch in Taxco-El-Viejo, November 2002
In November of 2002, my husband and I decided to take a trip to Taxco, Mexico. A friend of my husband recommended that I contact a collector of vintage Taxco silver jewelry prior to our departure. Sheila graciously agreed to show me some of her vintage Taxco silver jewelry. I was absolutely dazzled by the artistry and beauty of the pieces she had collected, which dated from the 1930’s through the 1950’s. The old Taxco jewelry designs were unique and dramatic. After being exposed to this marvelous collection, I wanted to personally experience the magic of Taxco.
We arrived in the small colonial silver mining town, located in the State of Guererro, just in time for Thanksgiving. We intended to see the entries in the 65th Feria Nacional de La Plata -- the National Silver Fair -- which normally takes place at this time of year in Taxco. The National Silver Fair began during William Spratling’s lifetime to foster creative development in silver design. We were very disappointed to discover that the fair had concluded the week prior to our arrival.
We decided, however, to go outside of town to visit the Spratling Ranch in Taxco-El-Viejo. We did not really know how we would accomplish this, but set out for the bus station in town to inquire about transportation. While at the bus station, we asked someone at the tourist information desk about traveling to the Spratling Ranch. Luckily for us, our questions in English were overheard by a bystander who understood us. He informed us that the owner of the Spratling Ranch, Alberto Ulrich, had died 2 days prior while in New York City. The ranch was closed to tourists presently and we would most likely not be able to get past the gates. I turned to my husband and asked him if he wanted to take a chance and try to see the ranch anyway. This was Mexico and you never know the possibilities. He told me he was up for it and so our adventure began.
We boarded a local bus and proceeded out of Taxco on a rural road. I told our very patient bus driver we wanted to go to the Spratling Ranch. I am sure he felt like he had a 5-year-old in the bus because every few minutes I would ask him, “Are we there yet????” Finally he told me in Spanish, “I will tell you when.” True to his word, he eventually stopped beside the highway at two large iron gates sporting the unmistakable initials "WS." We had arrived!
The gates were indeed closed, which was not a hopeful sign. We walked across the highway to the guard shed and announced our presence. The guard repeated the information that we had already heard at the bus station. I then pleaded with the watchman and explained that we were aware of the recent death of the ranch owner. It would mean a great deal to us if we could walk the grounds ever so briefly, with care to be discreet close to the main house. We had come a great distance and Don Guillermo Spratling was a figure of great historical importance to us. We were very afraid this might be our only opportunity to visit the ranch. The watchman consented to our brief visit and we were off.The setting for the Spratling Ranch is bucolic and beautiful. The gates beside the highway open up to a road lined with tall bamboo plants leading to the house, which is constructed of stucco in a sprawling hacienda style.
Directly behind the hacienda rises a mountain at the base of which runs a babbling stream bordered by trees that appear to be giant cypresses. The sound of rushing water from the stream can be heard from the hacienda. We were unable to see the museum or workshops on this trip, but thought the setting for the ranch spectacular and could see why William Spratling had decided to settle here. After our trip, I learned that the lush stands of bamboo and other foliage on the property had been planted by William Spratling.
Signs of the luxurious lifestyle led by William Spratling were still evident. Behind the main house were a large swimming pool and cages for a menagerie.
A few macaws still perched in the cages. We found out later that the cement lilly ponds in the area had been built for otters that Spratling kept on the property. The factory bell with the “WS” mark from La Florida, the huge complex on the northern edge of Taxco the artist bought and renovated in 1944 to handle ever-increasing orders, was still at the hacienda.
I had read that Spratling had trained his parrot Lorenzo to fly to the bell and ring it at certain times of the day to signify the beginning and end of the work day, as well as breaks for lunch. The property was largely deserted with very few signs of anyone present. We took pictures at a record pace knowing this might be our last chance. Approximately 15 minutes later we returned to the watchman’s shed to let him know we were done. We assumed that sooner or later a bus would pass returning to Taxco, but which one should we flag down? Our watchman came to the rescue and told us he would flag down the appropriate bus. After a short visit, we were off to Taxco on the return bus packed with people going to shop and visit.
Even though the Spratling Ranch currently is not maintained to the standards of its heyday, we were glad that we had the opportunity to visit a surviving piece of Taxco history. Spratling jewelry pieces are still available for viewing at the museum on site and jewelry production continues on a very limited basis at the ranch. The Spratling Ranch at Taxco-El-Viejo is a recommended stop for those who not only desire to know more about the history of Taxco silver, but also seek a window into the genius that was William Spratling.